Marc Jacobs Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Celebrating his brand's 40th anniversary on Instagram, Marc Jacobs recently reminisced about his title as the Design Student of the Year at Parsons in 1984. As the anticipation built for his upcoming show over the weekend, the intriguing question lingered: would he delve into the archives of his previous collections? Fashion has witnessed a copious amount of archival rivalry in recent years, with designers, particularly those of a certain vintage, frequently indulging in self-referential gestures. While Jacobs, a true connoisseur of fashion's intricacies, often draws inspiration from the past in his designs, he has consistently steered clear of being overly fixated on his personal history. His irreverent spirit prevails, rejecting any inclination towards self-seriousness, a characteristic that remains decidedly off-brand.

Vogue described the Park Avenue Armory as dark when they walked in; as the lights came on at approximately 6 p.m., a giant folding table and chair stood at focus at the back of the runway. Which was the work of the late artist Robert Therrien, where Jacobs referred to in his show notes. “I try to stay with themes or objects or sources I can trace back to my personal history. The further back I can trace something as being meaningful to me in some way or another… the more I am attracted to it.”

The models appeared from backstage and walked under the table, a distorted perspective amplified by the exaggerated measurements of their clothes, the stiff foam-like fabrics selected by Jacobs, and the way some of the garments were sewn together with side seams on the outside, exposing rather than concealing their alterations. Their mundanity had closely been compressed from them, causing a loss of direction both prompt and pertinent. On inflated sweaters, shoulders were pushed forward, producing unusual 2D effects, and flat trompe l'oeil embellishments were added, giving the impression of a necklace or brooch.

Vogue continued to describe the models as mid-century dolls dressed in feminine suits, shifts, cocktail dresses and evening columns gleaming with oversize paillettes—though track suits with shrunken jackets and trousers rising to the sternum, and pastel velour sets à la Juicy Couture via Balenciaga did disrupt the swans-on-psychedelics narrative. So did the "ludicrously capacious" version of his Venetia bag, a best-seller from the 2000s that made an iconic appearance in The Devil Wears Prada.

Once again, Marc Jacobs has masterfully orchestrated an indelible spectacle, drawing inspiration from his own legendary narrative as the Design Student of the Year at Parsons in 1984. His latest collection unfolds as a mesmerizing tableau, featuring designs that transcend mere garments, akin to living dolls. From the whimsically exaggerated hairdos reminiscent of Duffy to meticulously tailored and embellished details, Jacobs crafts a visual narrative that mirrors the precise fit and adornments of vintage dolls. The ensemble is nothing short of a curated capsule, complete with an accessory reminiscent of mid-century doll sets. Jacobs not only showcases his skills as a designer but also conjures a sartorial journey imbued with nostalgia and innovation.

Here at New York Embroidery Studio, we employed the technique of cutwork on beading, we executed a precision-driven process to meticulously position each stone on the dress as per the explicit directives of the genius Marc Jacobs for his runway event. This exact method involved the careful interplay of craftsmanship and artistry, ensuring that every bead found its designated place with utmost accuracy and finesse, we not only honored his creative vision but elevated the dress into a transformation of Jacobs' enchanting appearance. This intricate detailing contributes to the overall narrative of the runway event, capturing the essence of Jacobs' distinct style in every meticulously placed stone.

References:

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs

https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-week/a46632361/marc-jacobs-fall-2024-collection/

https://www.marcjacobs.com/default/about-marc/collections/spring-2024/